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Jul. 5th, 2008

Regulating Hope ~ Obama's Right

From yesterday's NY Times.

Note this editorial lacks teeth when it comes to Iraq. Could it be the NY Times is apart of the consensus on the long road out of Iraq and permenant occupation forces.

July 4, 2008
Editorial
New and Not Improved

Senator Barack Obama stirred his legions of supporters, and raised our hopes, promising to change the old order of things. He spoke with passion about breaking out of the partisan mold of bickering and catering to special pleaders, promised to end President Bush’s abuses of power and subverting of the Constitution and disowned the big-money power brokers who have corrupted Washington politics.

Now there seems to be a new Barack Obama on the hustings. First, he broke his promise to try to keep both major parties within public-financing limits for the general election. His team explained that, saying he had a grass-roots-based model and that while he was forgoing public money, he also was eschewing gold-plated fund-raisers. These days he’s on a high-roller hunt.

Even his own chief money collector, Penny Pritzker, suggests that the magic of $20 donations from the Web was less a matter of principle than of scheduling. “We have not been able to have much of the senator’s time during the primaries, so we have had to rely more on the Internet,” she explained as she and her team busily scheduled more than a dozen big-ticket events over the next few weeks at which the target price for quality time with the candidate is more than $30,000 per person.

The new Barack Obama has abandoned his vow to filibuster an electronic wiretapping bill if it includes an immunity clause for telecommunications companies that amounts to a sanctioned cover-up of Mr. Bush’s unlawful eavesdropping after 9/11.

In January, when he was battling for Super Tuesday votes, Mr. Obama said that the 1978 law requiring warrants for wiretapping, and the special court it created, worked. “We can trace, track down and take out terrorists while ensuring that our actions are subject to vigorous oversight and do not undermine the very laws and freedom that we are fighting to defend,” he declared.

Now, he supports the immunity clause as part of what he calls a compromise but actually is a classic, cynical Washington deal that erodes the power of the special court, virtually eliminates “vigorous oversight” and allows more warrantless eavesdropping than ever.

The Barack Obama of the primary season used to brag that he would stand before interest groups and tell them tough truths. The new Mr. Obama tells evangelical Christians that he wants to expand President Bush’s policy of funneling public money for social spending to religious-based organizations — a policy that violates the separation of church and state and turns a government function into a charitable donation.

He says he would not allow those groups to discriminate in employment, as Mr. Bush did, which is nice. But the Constitution exists to protect democracy, no matter who is president and how good his intentions may be.

On top of these perplexing shifts in position, we find ourselves disagreeing powerfully with Mr. Obama on two other issues: the death penalty and gun control.

Mr. Obama endorsed the Supreme Court’s decision to overturn the District of Columbia’s gun-control law. We knew he ascribed to the anti-gun-control groups’ misreading of the Constitution as implying an individual right to bear arms. But it was distressing to see him declare that the court provided a guide to “reasonable regulations enacted by local communities to keep their streets safe.”

What could be more reasonable than a city restricting handguns, or requiring that firearms be stored in ways that do not present a mortal threat to children?

We were equally distressed by Mr. Obama’s criticism of the Supreme Court’s barring the death penalty for crimes that do not involve murder.

We are not shocked when a candidate moves to the center for the general election. But Mr. Obama’s shifts are striking because he was the candidate who proposed to change the face of politics, the man of passionate convictions who did not play old political games.

There are still vital differences between Mr. Obama and Senator John McCain on issues like the war in Iraq, taxes, health care and Supreme Court nominations. We don’t want any “redefining” on these big questions. This country needs change it can believe in.

Jul. 4th, 2008

punching in and dreaming the dream.

I spent today working in the woods at springfarm. Things were quite for the fourth, it would seem the scattered showers are keeping away some of the tourists. Turned out to be a nice day with only a brief early morning shower. Temps were in the low 70s for much of the day with a sharp breeze. I actually had on two jackets - a Mtn Hardware softshell and a rain jacket over it during the morning. Later in the day it went up to about 75 with higher humidity.

I spent the day with my atlas making calculations to various national parks in Canada that are known for ice climbing. This gave me something to do on a quite day. And I am also very interested in checking out some of Canada's classic routes.

As you may or may not know I love Canada and have spent quite a bit of time there. I would say about two to three months in my life which is longer than anywhere else I've stayed outside of NY. I've been to all the major cities but only in the national parks camping outside Montreal. So it took me a while to orient myself. Thankful my co-worker B., also an ice climber stopped by after finding lost 8 year old in the woods (now that's a story). B. is a retired teacher and accomplished ice climber from LI, NY. He had great beta on the ice conditions and local spots to ck out.

Turns out most of the hot spots are in and around the Canadian rockies near Canmore and Calgary. I believe this is in the province of Alberta. There's Banff, the Bugaboos, Mt. Robson and a few more. Canmore is well known for mixed climbs too. There is also Squamish and British Columbia. Quebec is also known for its ice climbing however the language barrier makes researching climbing a bit more difficult. I am told the Quebec guide book is quite good but its in French.

Just look at the ice in Quebec. Ahhhh I want it.


I am also trying to do more detailed research on a climbing trip to Alaska next year. If I were to go it would be in the May/June 2009. My plan would involve training and climbing ice all winter and be in my best physical shape for something in Denali National Park.

There are several significant challenges facing me in taking an Alaska trip. One there are no hotels. This would be full on winter camping AND ice climbing. This is something I do not have experience with. I am used to climbing all day in freezing temps and then going back to a hotel and taking a warm shower and sleeping in a bed. Last time I pushed a camping climbing trip was in Red Rocks and the results were shall we say mixed. Two there is the likelihood of ski approach and my skiing experience is very limited. Three an Alaska trip is a 3-4 week venture involving lots of logistics, gear and food prep. Its a real ordeal. Four it involves at least 3 plane flights just to get there. Assuming there is no direct flight to Alaska. I then still have to charter a plane. All this is a big freaking deal. And I could get to Alaska and the weather could be bad and no climbing. no climbing at all. that would suck.

The Canadian trips would likely involve hotels, hostels or huts. I would be in and near towns so I conditions suck I would still have civilization to amuse myself with. There is no HBO in Denali National Park. The objective dangers in both trips would be significant for an experienced climber and mountaineer. I am more of a serious alpine beginner. Shorter trips with less time on the sharp end seems to be the way to go.

So there's all that. I don't know if I am ready for Alaska. Still Alaska calls to me and I've got the fever bad. I well organized trip with more experience partners is possible. Either way I am going to have to step it all up work hard to bring my A game to such a trip. And regardless of where I go I need to find a very serious partner(s) for such endeavors. I have some ideas. We shall see.




Ben Gilmore leading through the second iceband on Moonflower Buttress (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6, 6,100', Stump-Aubrey [to last rock band], 1981; Bibler-Klewin [to summit], 1983). The route features three rockbands to be surmounted, connected by discontinuous (in most years) ice runnels. Since the team was comprised of three climbers, they broke the climbing into blocks dictated by the terrain—three rockbands, three climbers. [Photo] Courtesy Maxime Turgeon

Photo and information from alpinist.com
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Tonight I ran. To the best of my knowledge I ran 7.8 miles in 77 minutes and 23 seconds. The time is right be the distance is not 100% clear. I think I have it right but ya never know I am running in the frakking woods after all. The other night I said I ran 4 miles in 40 minutes. Turned out it was 4.4 miles in 40 minutes. My ego can relax a little.

And its is official I am not doing NP crossfit anymore. I work days now until 5 or 6pm and Crossfit only happens at 5pm so I am iced out. I am kinda bummed about this but I know I should be more bummed. CF is amazing. I can't can't train like that alone. Not sure what I am going to do now but continue running, climbing and seeing where it all goes. Whatever happens I am living the dream.

Happy Independence day

Happy Independence day. From fallujah to the Gaza Strip, Belfast to Nepal, freedom and independence are beautiful things. Everyone should have em.

And for those looking for a more, how you say, traditional 4th, growing up my parents loved to watch fine Irish touch guy Jimmy Cagney, the Sean Penn of the 30s, play George M. Cohan in Yankee Doodle Dandy. A film of the life of the renowned musical composer, playwright, actor, dancer and singer George M. Cohan. Cagney was known for playing tough guys who were a little nuts but he was also an accomplished dancer and theater performer. This is a totally feel good flick with lots of patriotism. Its a film I am very fond of for all its flaws.

If you seek it out on netflicks or blockbuster make sure you watch it in black and white. there is a colorized verison which is terrible.

Jul. 3rd, 2008

the pot comedy is back

From The Wackness to Pineapple Express, the pot comedy is back. It all feels very 80s to me. And in fact there writers of these flicks are all in there mid to late 30s and 40s. Children of the cheech and chong movies and 80s comedies.

For me and my friends Fast Times at Ridgemont High defined at least 3 years of my high school lifestyle. First its an amazing film. Cameron Crowes 1st with a stellar cast including Sean Penn, Jennifer Jason Leigh, Judge Reinhold, Nick Cage, Eric Stolz, and that dude that plays Deamon.

Fast Times was our Godfather. Our Citizen Kane. We were all spicoli therefore everytime we had to get money out of our pockets we first removed the lint from the change in our hand. I can still recite Penn's entire performance. no joke. Enjoy a classic below. Sean Penn is terribly funny in the flick hopefully someday he'll do another comedy.




It was great. Yay real great in a sorta gallows humor desire to self destruct kinda way. Except, unlike the movies, most of us didn't get the guy or gall and ended up on a fast train to nowhere. Jeez have I turned into a 40 year old republican? Well no. I feel the same way about beer, wine and whiskey as I do pot, mesc and pcp. There drugs.

Nonetheless this looks fucking funny. I have a huge crush on Seth Rogen. And James Franco is channelling Brad Pitt's performance in True Romance. Plus its got Rosie Perez and Nora Dunn in it.


3 of 10

I am in day 3 of 10 days of none stop work. I'm tuckered. yo. I like getting up early but I havent slept past 7am in forever (oh poor me). Last night I was bursting with energy so I grabbed the headlamp and went for a late night run. I ran 4 perfect 10 minute miles. Too much energy with nowhere to put it. I would like to bring a jump rope to work but I can't get the uniform all sweaty.

The next two days I am stationed at Springfarm. See pic below. The grass has a tough of the old coutry don'tcha think? I know its touch being me.



I can't wait for a day off to get in some climbing. I am planning on getting out on July 11th. And then taking a few days starting the 14th to climb. climb and climb. Tonight I am going back to crossfit. Tomorrow is the 4th, I plan on sleeping.

In other news winner of this year's dramatic Audience Award at Sundance, is getting rave reviews. It takes place in NYC in 94, a good year as I recall. I love the way it captures Manhattan with humor, ease and sexiness that doesn't feel forced. And the sound track, ohhhhh, its fresh friends. fresh.



And we have new slipknot. Well we have new slipknot masks at least. 8 million people went to the website to see the new slipknot masks. Yes that is not a typo 8 million people went to the website to see the masks of a Iowa death metal/grindcore band. How freaking cool is that! And some say metal is dead. See what the "buzz" is about here: http://www.spinner.com/

the cd is out in the coming months. Its called all hope is gone. Evidentially Slipknot havent heard Obama's message. The title track has lyrics like, "And we will burn because we won't unite!" Iran anyone?

listen to the track here: http://www.myspace.com/slipknot1

In the meantime here's a video from there last cd. Its a homewrecker. Any band with 3 drummers including a bloody clown playing an easton on a keg are the bees knees.

Jul. 2nd, 2008

starbuck's GAP

Starbucks makes the best coffee. Fact. But it looks like we're going to have to walk an extra block or two to get a cup. The corporate grunge latte's are going the GAP route of closing 600 stores after there huge expansion over the past few years. I dont really think we can call this a recession based decision but more a case of too quickly expanding after there great success in the late 90s/00s.


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SEATTLE — Starbucks Corp. has announced it's closing 600 underperforming stores in the United States.

The Seattle-based premium coffee company also announced Tuesday it expects to open fewer than 200 new company-operated stores in the United States in fiscal 2009.

The company says it will try to place workers from closed stores in remaining Starbucks.

Jul. 1st, 2008

2 out of 11 ~ Best foods you (i) aren't eating

Well I eat Sardines and blueberries. 2 out of 11 is a start. of sorts.

Ck the link and read the blog for a discussion of the list. good stuff.

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1. Beets: Think of beets as red spinach, Dr. Bowden said, because they are a rich source of folate as well as natural red pigments that may be cancer fighters.
How to eat: Fresh, raw and grated to make a salad. Heating decreases the antioxidant power.
2. Cabbage: Loaded with nutrients like sulforaphane, a chemical said to boost cancer-fighting enzymes.
How to eat: Asian-style slaw or as a crunchy topping on burgers and sandwiches.
3. Swiss chard: A leafy green vegetable packed with carotenoids that protect aging eyes.
How to eat it: Chop and saute in olive oil.
4. Cinnamon: Helps control blood sugar and cholesterol.
How to eat it: Sprinkle on coffee or oatmeal.
5. Pomegranate juice: Appears to lower blood pressure and loaded with antioxidants.
How to eat: Just drink it.
6. Dried plums: Okay, so they are really prunes, but packed with cancer-fighting antioxidants.
How to eat: Wrapped in prosciutto and baked.
7. Pumpkin seeds: The most nutritious part of the pumpkin and packed with magnesium; high levels of the mineral are associated with lower risk for early death.
How to eat: Roasted as a snack, or sprinkled on salad.
8. Sardines: Dr. Bowden calls them “health food in a can.'’ They are high in omega-3’s, contain virtually no mercury and are loaded with calcium. They also contain iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, copper and manganese as well as a full complement of B vitamins.
How to eat: Choose sardines packed in olive or sardine oil. Eat plain, mixed with salad, on toast, or mashed with dijon mustard and onions as a spread.
9. Turmeric: The “superstar of spices,'’ it has anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties.
How to eat: Mix with scrambled eggs or in any vegetable dish.
10. Frozen blueberries: Even though freezing can degrade some of the nutrients in fruits and vegetables, frozen blueberries are available year-round and don’t spoil; associated with better memory in animal studies.
How to eat: Blended with yogurt or chocolate soy milk and sprinkled with crushed almonds.
11. Canned pumpkin: A low-calorie vegetable that is high in fiber and immune-stimulating vitamin A; fills you up on very few calories.
How to eat: Mix with a little butter, cinnamon and nutmeg.


http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/06/30/the-11-best-foods-you-arent-eating/?em&ex=1215057600&en=358c886fa74b7e4d&ei=5087%0A

Jun. 30th, 2008

serious (serious movie nerd moment)

"when the chips are down, civilized people will eat each other"

Heath Ledger as the Joker

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As many already know I am a serious movie nerd. I am.

This summer has had its share of comic book blockbusters with Ironman and the new Hulk movie rocking everyone's world, getting good reviews and making lots of money.

It would seem we are at a turning point. Mainstream hollywood is throwing large sums of money at the best talent in the industry and doing the unthinkable, letting them create art. This window, which reminds me of the golden age of 70s cinema in America, may close, all it takes is a few financial failures and the winds can change at the drop of the hat and we will be stuck watching norbit sequels again.

Two films are coming out which geeks across the universe are salivating over. Hellboy 2 and the Batman flick with Heath Ledger. Hellboy is written and directed by Guillermo del Toro one of the best film makers today and one of the Mexican 3 mustketeers. Best know for Pan's Labyrinth, Del Toro is actually a horror movie director whose broken into the mainstream and become a critic favorite. Similarly the newly reinvented Batman, is created by left of center filmmaker Chris Nolan who rocked the indy world with Momento.

I have to be honest as a comic book nerd I never liked DC comic and never liked batman. Batman was an effete rich guy, distant and removed. Batman was a 1930s dirty harry brought to life. I never dug him. I thought Nolan's batman was good but not great. I respected what he created but it didnt move me.

Like many comic book geeks I was impressed by Frank Miller's Dark Knight. He seems a more genuine character, more true and real. You may not know the name of MIller but you do. He is the author of the new film The Spirit but also 300 and Sin City. He mixes Hammet, Mamet and comicbooks like no other. He is a real visionary with politics to the Right of dick cheney. Still a great artist is a great artist and he brought out something in the dark night comics that rocked the comic world.

Because of Heath Ledger's death along with the already high expections for the film, The Dark Knight will be huge. But before you get caught up in the hype or because you really want to enjoy it below is a fantastic review of both films.

The review got me excited. Here's a sampling and the link.

Warning: the review contains serious spoilers.

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First the trailer:



http://www.apple.com/trailers/wb/thedarkknight/trailer3/

amazing!!

Here's a sample about The Dark Knight.


No one gets out without losing something dear to them. If Warner Bros. wanted to title this like the first film, they could have called it BATMAN FAILS, because no matter what he does in this film, he finds himself unable to stem the overflow of shit that threatens his city. He can’t fly around the world to turn back time when something goes wrong. He can’t erase memories or do magic or just magically reset everything and try again. Each time things get worse, all he can do is adjust and try to move on from there, until it finally reaches a point where he isn’t sure there’s any way to adjust anymore.


Read it all below.
http://www.aintitcool.com/node/37285

Jun. 27th, 2008

what I want for my birthday

Today I had a most excellent day of climbing with D. She led the first pitch of Dennis. I led the second pitch. We then moved down the way and I led Bloody Bush pitches one and two. A super neat exposed 5.6. By the time I finished the second pitch which is a scary traverse under a roof it was raining. D. followed and we quickly went about rapping down.

We thought our day was done but the sun fought its way back and met up with E. and B. They were top roping a short completely overhanging crack climb. I am trying to find its name as its not really a climb per se its actually next to a big bouldering problem. The climb is sick. B. worked on it for a bit but couldnt get it. We all knew E. could race up and down the thing blind folded. He is that good. I wanted it. I wanted to try it so bad but didnt think I could do it. B. asked me to give it a go. I jumped on and surprised myself by nailing it. First try. No problem. Soon it started to drizzle again and I got D. on the 3:30pm bus back to NYC. A perfect day.

This got me thinking what do I want for my birthday. Hmmmmmm.

1) for my birthday I want to lead climb High Exposure in the Gunks. Its a classic. Thee classic, I will do this.


2) The Dangler. I would like to follow the Dangler. Its a well known 5.9. its hard but moreover exposed and scary. Look at that picture. Its fugazi. I want it.



Here's a video of the dangle on the dangler.



3) Goals one and two are a pretty good start. List in progress I'm still working on it.

de-mockracy Israeli Style

Nothing the Israeli government does ever surprises me. After all when Rabin, the liberal's policy in the occupied territories is openly called, "force, might and beatings," ya know your fucked. Still every now and again a story comes along like the one below and you have to pause and let the nausea pass. After a year of offering Israel a ceasefire, now Israel acts as if Hamas has been intransigent all along. Its fucking Orwellian.


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Palestinians banned from their own beaches


16 June 2008. A World to Win News Service. A busload of Palestinian children aged 6-12 came from Hebron in the West Bank to see the sea. Cut off from going west to the beaches of the Mediterranean by Israel’s “separation wall”, instead they went east. They had never seen an open body of water. The school outing, coordinated with the Israeli-recognized Palestinian Authority Education Ministry, included teachers and parents as well as the children.

The Dead Sea beaches are lovely, and the children were really looking forward to them. But Israeli soldiers cut off the bus and would not let it pass. The bus left and then came back again later that day, in hopes that the soldiers had just been in a bad mood.

The bus driver, Mohammed Ahmed Nuaga’a, described it like this to the Independent (14 June): “I tried to explain to them that these are young pupils who came from very far to fulfil a big dream – to see the sea,” he said.


“But the soldiers were aggressive, and started shouting at us that Palestinian passage is forbidden, whether children or adults. The pupils begged the soldiers to let them go for even 10 minutes just to see the sea and return, but nothing happened.”

It turned out to be official Israeli policy to erect checkpoints on roads just before they reach the Dead Sea beaches on weekends and Jewish holidays.

Why? Because shopkeepers in beachfront communities – illegal Jewish settlers on the northern part of the sea which is, even according to Israel, supposed to be Palestinian territory – complained to the army that having Palestinians sitting on the beaches hurt their business, selling things to Israeli tourists, who are not used to sharing public spaces with Palestinians.

Many of the Israelis, no doubt, came from what was once the jewel of Palestine, Jerusalem, on the infamous Israeli-only roads leading out of the city and through the West Bank. These walled roads cut off Palestinian communities from one another, allow the rapid movement of Israeli troops and make commuting easier for Jewish settlers, thereby encouraging even more illegal Jewish settlements deeper and deeper into the little territory left Palestinians. Construction for these settlements has accelerated since the “road map” negotiations began.

An indication of the character of these settlements came 8 June when an Israeli group released a video made by a young woman in a Palestinian village near Hebron. It showed club-wielding masked youth marching out of a Jewish settlement below and beating her 70 year-old father- and mother-in law while they were tending the family’s goats on the hillside (video at news.bbc.co. uk Middle East).

back to staten island

Has Logan been sent back to the 111 in Staten Island? Or is Noth basking in the success of the sex in the city movie and moving on. All I know I am thrilled that Mr. Big is off CI. Noth has long been dead weight in the series.

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No More Law + Order For Noth

Sex + The City star Chris Noth is to turn in his Law + Order badge - the actor has quit the show.

Noth will not be part of the eighth season of TV cop drama Law + Order: Criminal Intent, according to insiders.

The news comes as Jurassic Park star Jeff Goldblum is announced as the new face of the drama.

Noth has played Detective Mike Logan on the show for the past three years.

Jun. 26th, 2008

sad news and a reminder of the dangers when rappelling

RIP Paul Duval. Duval was evidentially rappelling on a friends rope and misjudged how much rope was below him. He sadly rappelled off the end of his rope and fell to the ground. This is terribly sad news. Paul Duval had 40 plus years climbing experience and was 71 years young.

When I first started climbing I had no idea how dangerous rapping down is. I thought it was cool and fun and the EASY part of the adventure. Now I often get into discussions and occasional arguments with climbers and partners about putting stopper knots at the end of rappel ropes as well as using an autoblock break when rappelling down.

A stopper knot placed at the end of each rope will stop you from flying off the end of the rope if your doing multiple rappels down an route. Or if you make a misjudgement about the rope being on the ground, etc.

An auto block is a small bit of cord that is being used as a friction device below your belay device. If you were to be hit in the head with a rock or accidentially let go of your belay device while on rappel the friction hitch would stop you from continuing down the rope.

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The rock climber killed Tuesday in a fall in the Needles apparently had misjudged the amount of rope he had as he rappelled from one of the spires, according to Custer County Sheriff Rick Wheeler.

The victim, Paul A. Duval, 71, of Custer, was a very experienced climber, Wheeler said. Duval climbed almost every day. But he apparently misjudged the amount of rope he had and fell to the ground in Tuesday's accident, Wheeler said.

Duval and his climbing partner were climbing on Moonlight Ridge when he fell shortly after noon Tuesday, Wheeler said.

Duval and his partner were reportedly using a new rope that was not their own and was marked differently, according to Daryl Stisser, co-owner of Sylvan Rocks Climbing School and Guide Service. Stisser, who wasn't on the scene at the time of the accident, said Duval apparently mistook some of the marks on the climbing rope, leading to the accident.

There were other climbers in the area Tuesday, Wheeler said.

Rescue crew members administered CPR but could not resuscitate him, he said. Duval was dead at the scene.

Duval, who spent much of his life as a teacher in the Boston area, was a long-time member of the Appalachian Mountain Club and was very active as a rock-climbing instructor, according to his brother, Ron Duval of Long Valley, N.J. Paul Duval's climbing experience included excursions to Europe, Africa, Mexico and throughout North America, his brother said.

He had climbed often in the Needles, Wheeler said.

Although a teenager died while climbing without safety equipment near Sylvan Lake last summer, accidents involving technical climbers are rare, according to Steve Baldwin, head of the Custer County Search and Rescue team.

Tuesday's accident was the first serious accident in the Needles area for many years, Baldwin said. "The climbers are generally so good, they pretty much take care of themselves," he said.

But the Needles' granite spires offer a range of climbing that draws serious climbers, Baldwin said Wednesday. "People come from all over the world. Difficulty wise, it's everything from nice, easy climbs to extremely technical."

Climbers may be seen on the Needles virtually every nice day during the summer, according to Craig Pugsley, visitor-services coordinator at Custer State Park. Pugsley said the park doesn't keep track of the number of climbers, who aren't required to register to climb.

Rock climbing is generally a safe sport with relatively few accidents, but like other sports, it is susceptible to error, Stisser said.

The local climbing community is mourning Duval, Stisser said Wednesday. "Rock climbing was a part of life that Paul loved. He loved the people, and the beautiful places it took him. He will be missed."

Stisser added, "Many I've talked to were out on the rocks again today, no doubt being a little more careful."

Contact Steve Miller at 394-8417 or steve.miller@rapidcityjournal.com

facebook sucks

I am beginning to think Facebook sucks.

Reasons:

1) The main one I constantly get messages for applications, games, tests, etc that lead directly to marketing and advertising that is then linked to your page. Moreover there is no easy way to disengage said advertising, facebook doesnt offer you a way out.

And the movies and stuff SUCK!! Myspace markets itself to the mainstream but also has deals with NIN, horror movies and weird crap. Facebook goes from bad cultural trend to another.

2) I get superwall posts that never appear on my page but get random shit from people I dont know that is stuck on my page.

3) No blog.

4) A crappy design and color scheme. Its the worst. Boring, boring, boring.

5) Facebook is like the overachiever version of myspace. On myspace people talk about drinking and sex on Facebook people have their resumes on their pages. There is less whimsy on facebook it really strikes me as being way to serious.

6) Personal Class/demographics. Although Facebook seems to be geared towards people my age I have never found anyone I've grown up with or known in Brooklyn! Whereas I can find about 20 people I know on myspace who grew up in Flatlands, Brooklyn.

7) Legal identity. What is up with Facebook's demands for your legal first and last name. It is bullshit.

Jun. 24th, 2008

Gay. Nude. Swimming. Welcome to New Paltz

Guess what I learned on my first day at the new job.

Welcome to New Paltz.


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About 6 miles west of the funky hamlet of New Paltz, you'll find Mohonk Preserve http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/). At the popular Split Rock Hole in Coxing Kill Creek (nudity is prohibited), walk across the bridge here, just past the bridge on the left there is a tree limb stairway. Go down and follow path for about 10 minute walk. Some trees are marked with yellow paint so it's easy to follow. You will know when you get there. Not a very deep swimming hole, but wading and sunning are nice here and bathing suits are said to be a personal choice but rarely worn. It's an ideal paradise for naturists. There are flat rocks for sunbathing. Small crowds gather including some gay men. It's quiet on the weekdays but very popular on warm weekends. While nudity is perfectly acceptable in the designated areas, Mohonk Preserve officials are vigilant about not tolerating any kind of sexual behavior.

After a long day by the water, satiate your hunger at Northern Spy Cafe and eating on their porch. Try their Meatless Loaf, made from lentils, onions, mushrooms and rice, served with a tomato-mushroom gravy. Then sidle up to the bar at the local brewpub, Gilded Otter Brewing Company. While you're there, you can try to get married. In 2004, the mayor of New Paltz started marrying gay couples but they were subsequently nullified. Enjoy the luxury of a fine hotel combined with the cozy comfort of a bed and breakfast at Minnewaska Lodge, a contemporary 26-room mountain lodge on 17 secluded acres, nestled at the base of the spectacular Shawangunk Mountains (http://www.minnewaskalodge.com/).

http://www.gayoutdoors.org/page.cfm?Sectionid=133&typeofsite=storydetail&ID=738&storyset=yes&parent=153

Jun. 23rd, 2008

thanks george

Thanks George. A proud Irishman from White Harlem aka Morningside Heights born in 1937. George I will miss ya.

mellow yellow

1) There have been periodic thunder storms in NP for the past couple of weeks. On friday I got to lead Ribs a two pitch 5.4 route in the gunks. It was my very first time on the route so it was an onsight. I lead it without falling, hanging on gear all without ever been on this particular climb. We then finished up on the last pitch of the arch 5.5 which I also got to lead. After that my dear climbing buddy B. led Thin Slabs (Variation 1) a 5.7 route with a thin crack and face moves right at the start of the climb. B. worked it. I followed and did well. Near the end of the pitch the sky opened up and it poured as I was finishing up. Water ran down both my arms as I gripped the rock to make it up to ledge. We quickly bailed and rappeled down.

That's what climbing here is like these days. Climb but be prepared to bail. I wouldnt say I am bailing but I am posponing my AMGA exam. I havent been able to train enough and spending the money and possibly failing is not an option. I feel good about this decision as I dont need to accomplish this goal right now but instead steady progress, as I have and take the exam when I have everything dailed as it should be as a guide.

Today I went out to train in self rescue and work on my skills but hail and heavy rain sent me home. Later this afternoon E and I took advantage of a small weather window and did Yellow Ridge 5.7 (See pic below). It is a challenging 5.7 with some awkward and dicey moves. And when your climbing with E who is very good and he calls the moves dicey. Friends its dicey.


This picture is from the start of first pitch. Sketchy.


Yellow Ridge (last pitch), Near Trapps; 5.7 (photo from Alpine Endeavors)

2) The travellers (anarcho-facial tattooed kids) are making a mess in NP. Shooting H on the railtrail, sexually harassing people, breaking into folks cars, dumpster diving and leaving piles of shit around town. My neighbor C. was attacked on friday night which led to a standoff in the middle of main st and facial tattoo kids arrests.

3) I have two jobs now and I am very busy. Scheduling climbing for more than 1 day at a time is challenging which sucks for visiting friends. We shall see after a few weeks as things are very busy right now. I am also doing my first ever baby sitting gig for two 8 and 10 year old boys on thursday. the pay is good. I am taking them hiking and swimming. should be fun. I hope.

4) French horror films are kicking ass these days. First Inside came out which disturbed the frak out of me. But this friday I saw Frontiers which is a strikingly smart pic about an inter-racial crew of French immigrants who commit a small robbery during the 2004 french elections. The film begins with a female voice over and scenes of actual nazis fighting progressives in pitch street battles on election day. She says, "My name is Yasmine. I'm three months pregnant. One day, someone said "Men are born free with equal rights". The world in which I live is the opposite. Who would want to be born to grow up in the chaos and the hate? I've decided to spare him the worst."

Anti-muslim and immigrant sentiment was high and the far right won some election seats. This was the election where the progressive french took a bold stand against the veil. This is the France that in 2004 banned the wearing of khimars (headscarves) by Muslim girls at school and in 2007 elected Nicolas Sarkozy — a right-wing conservative — as president. See link: http://www.brookings.edu/events/2004/0419france.aspx

In the film Yasmine and the rest of our protagonists escape the police and rioting, racing off to a rural "Inn" and pig farm run by a family that descended from french nazi collaborators. From there think texas chainsaw massarce, itself a conanical horror film with Muslim hip hop influenced youth facing neo-nazis. The french go for viseral horror with lots of dirt and blood. There are also gun battles in the film which is a total rarity for this kind of flick. its a very french aesthetic. And they seem to like to put pregger chicks as the final girl (see Inside).



5)Sunday I am having a 40th b'day gig in BK. I am looking forward to some choice BBQ and good friends.

6) I am really tired. is 6pm too early to go to bed?

Jun. 19th, 2008

80 minutes

Tonight I ran for 80 minutes. Not sure how far I went but I would guess around 7.5 miles. I would have kept running but I brought the dog this time and she looked totally wiped out. This is certainly the most I've ever run in my life. I am thinking I need to get a cheap odometer or something (suggestions anyone). I'd like to try for 10 next week and see how it goes.


Jun. 17th, 2008

burn, baby, burn

This looks delicious. I find some of the Coens comedies to be rather hit or miss but me things this is a winner.

the flow

I now have two jobs and solid work for the next two weeks. Climbing has been going fantastic many partners and many adventures. If I am up to it and feel fully prepared I am taking the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor exam at the end of next week. I am running hard and running strong. I have the best friends in the world. I am turning forty in 30 days. I've got the flow.

And evidentially it rubs off. How so last night I was walking my dog along the river in the dark. Saoirse was walking without a leash. Suddenly Saoirse raced off into the darkness. Immediately I knew she had seen another animal but what? I worried it was a cat and the results would be...bad.

About 75 feet in front of me Saoirse stopped and looked at a small black and white animal. Yup a cat? No a skunk. Saoirse and Pepi Lapu were no more than 2 feet away from each other. As I moved closer and closer worried my favorite disney character was going to spray my dog. Pepi instead walked off and Saorise perhaps recognizing it would be best to say goodbye from afar didnt follow. Maybe Pepi was going to get my lil one some flowers.


personal best

Today I ran 7 miles for the second time since thursday. Todays time was just over 70 minutes. I feel great, better than great, greater than great, I feel strong. And aside from some discomfort in my knees my body feels fine. I didnt feel winded or tired, I felt like I could keep going. Gotta say that CF has really built up my endurance. Skys the limit.

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